By September, chefs in remote areas of Canada Fogo Island Inn Garnished with bucket pies filled with sour huckleberries—one of 20 varieties found on the island that give the bushes a deep red huckleberry color—they were decorated with a lattice of molasses-sweetened, cinnamon-spiced pastry, then baked and cooled. Like a thieving cartoon character, we could almost have arrived there, not by flying, but by floating, like Mickey Mouse, on tendrils of scent, to this tiny Newfoundland Fishing communities.
Each Fogo IslandThe seven seasons (or up to 17, depending on who you ask) here are enchanting: winter, with picnics by the campfire and reindeer watching as the glaciers glitter and roar; “floating ice” season, with its frosty beauty; “trap berth” season, with its nets full of Atlantic cod; and summer, with its wildflowers and archipelago opening up…
But the ‘berry picking’ season and the following autumn (September to November) are the most rewarding: the harvest is plentiful, the local black bears are cozy, but fellow berry lovers should keep their distance. This is when everyone’s got a sweet tooth, and you can use your berries for tea, pie and freshly churned ice cream with the lodge’s chefs; then make your own pottery in a class at a local pottery studio; or even whittle your own wooden spoon as part of a bushcraft mission.
Good Neighbor
Besides having raspberries, blueberries, crowberries, bogberries, huckleberries, baked apples on your fingers, and artisanal jams and jellies tinkling in your suitcase when you check out, this is also a time of great community harvest (pun intended). A stay at Fogo Island gives you an inside look into its heart – the hotel was founded by seventh-generation islander Zita Cobb, who ensured it would become a treasure for residents, boosting the fishing economy through tourism that respects the planet, and putting all of its operating surpluses into the charity Shorefast, helping Newfoundland communities survive and thrive.
In this way, the boat-building studio Punt Premises is revived, artisans can continue the tradition of craftsmanship, and guests can get hands-on and draw on generations of wisdom. Artisans are invited to sew heirloom quilts, create chairs inspired by ship ribs, and add local color to the hotel interiors; art residencies focus on Aboriginal talent, the impact of climate change (set in Iceberg Alley in the North Atlantic, where Fogo experiences these changes firsthand) and island traditions. Sculptures are brought to life: Liam Gillick’s striking cherry-red fishing “stage” installation Variation quantifier It is also a practical weather station. Guests can compensate for the emissions generated by their travel and stay by purchasing carbon offsets from the hotel’s eco-partners Zero Carbon.
Join Island Life
But it all sounds a little impersonal—not the Fogo Island style. Friendly conversation begins at the Gander Island ferry, and Newfoundland greetings of “Waddaya at?” ring out as you hike through boreal forests and coastal heaths, especially as residents head out to restock their baskets. At Fogo Island Lodge, that warm hospitality continues through your personal community host, an experienced lifer who guides you and answers any burning questions about lore, history, nature, and more while meeting you, ending with fireside storytelling and folk songs.
It’s warm party time: From September 19 to 22, a mime with a lantern and lifebuoy tied to his legs will lead you on a “shed crawl” to celebrate the traditional Irish festival of Feile Tilting, when pubs appear in people’s homes. The following weekend, the Seaside Festival hosts cultural events such as artist salons, exhibitions and architectural walks, with everything from the space invader shells of hostels to the geometric studio huts dotted along the coast. It’s a chance to admire Norwegian architect Todd Sanders’ modern interpretation of the historical “saltbox” style – simple wooden huts built on stilts that can be disassembled after the fishing season is over. In October, you’ll enjoy a jam of music and food at the October Harvest Festival, where chefs prepare pickling and fermenting parties for winter reserves in the kitchen.
Inherited dining
That’s just a small sampling of the zero-waste culinary inventions here. A deep knowledge of the land and traditional techniques transform seasonal, hardscrabble foods into authentic, sumptuous delicacies. Carrots, pumpkins, parsnips and turnips (aka Swedish turnips) are pulled from the rhizomes for comforting game stews and steamed puddings; foraged porcini and hops add umami flavor to breads and oils; black honeycomb and pollen vinaigrettes add flavor to dishes; and cod is always on hand, whether fresh, smoked or pickled. Fees include all meals, including cakes in the tearoom, a traditional boil (a Newfoundland barbecue) and meals at some of the island’s restaurants—another way to sustain the community.
At night, the view turns starlit, with comets streaking across the sky, auroras as colorful as watercolors, and pinpricks of light against the backdrop of the Burre Islands; you can enjoy the view while enjoying the rooftop Nordic sauna or hot tub. Find out which National Film Board of Canada documentaries, independent films and blockbusters are playing in the cinema, read all about Fogo Island in the library, or simply light up the room’s wood-burning stove and curl up under the custom patchwork quilt, a work of art passed down from generation to generation, and feel as firmly anchored as a punt in the harbor. And to know that all this pampering is worth it, to maintain the mooring lines of island life and nurture the environment – well, that’s just the icing on the cake.
To learn more about Eco-Heroes, visit our Revival Stories Agriculture in Fiji or Thermal spas in South Tyrol
