Follow in the footsteps of US-based Saul Schwartz as he learns about the cuisine of the Portuguese capital. What options are there for vegans and vegetarians in a land that prides itself on being vegetarian? Ma Jiexiufish, meat and poultry dishes? As Saul embarks on a gastronomic tour of a city closely associated with Brazil, he shares his tips and advice for vegans, vegetarians and health foodies visiting Lisbon.
Saul Schwartz
In October, my wife Fern and I spent four days in Lisbon and Sintra, two of which were spent in the historic center of Lisbon, one in the beautiful Belém region, and one in the Sintra National Park. You can read about What to see in Lisbon and Belém in this articleand Tips for visiting Sintra in this article.
Here are our recommendations for Lisbon food and its Portuguese twist.
Portuguese Cuisine Vegan Tasting
On the last day of the trip we had an extraordinary vegetarian lunch with local chef Mateusz. We arrived at 12:30pm for a two hour multi-course vegan lunch. The lunch was hosted by the chef and his twin brother at the Ambiente Hostel at Avenida Almirante Reis 86, near the Anjos metro station. We booked this event via Airbnb events45 euros per person, plus tip. Drinks are included in the menu. The chef also advertises online Eat with the website.
The chef has redecorated the hostel’s restaurant into a lovely atmosphere, with paintings covering the walls and tables. Although the room can accommodate up to 20 people, we had a private meal alone with the chef. We were greeted by the chef who had prepared a colorful table setting, homemade bread and a variety of spreads including jams and olives. The next course was a delicious soup, followed by a main course of potatoes and the best dessert we had in Lisbon.
Fern and I really enjoyed the traditional Portuguese meal specially prepared by the chef as a vegetarian meal with a local atmosphere and flavour. Chef Matthäus uses vegetables and fruits from small farmers and local markets. This lunch was one of the highlights of our time in Lisbon.
We had a great time interacting with the chef. In 2015, he moved from Brazil to Portugal. The meal revealed his true passion – cooking delicious meals in the kitchen. We had several nice conversations throughout the meal.
Lunch at Organi Chiado – voted the best vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon
Our tour guide Gabriel recommended this excellent vegetarian restaurant in the Chiado neighborhood. For lunch on the first day of the trip, we dined at an outdoor table on the patio and enjoyed delicious salads and delicious vegetables. The menu changes every day and uses seasonal products, which for us is a great healthy and natural food choice. Most of the products are originally from Portugal and use high quality organic ingredients.
This restaurant opened in 2016 and has been voted the best vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon many times. The restaurant is located on the historic steps of Calcada Nova de Sao Francisco and also has an indoor dining room. The price is very reasonable.
Outdoor dining experience at Saldanha Mar restaurant
Although the prices are slightly higher than average for Lisbon, the food is good. We had dinner out on the second night of our trip. The meal started with olives and bread. Next we shared a mixed salad of lettuce and greens. The swordfish was especially tender and delicious, and the main course came with potatoes. The staff is very friendly.
Saldanha Mar is located in the Doubletree Hotel on Rua Engenhiero Vieira da Silva 2. As is typical in Lisbon, dinner starts before 7pm and lasts until 10pm
Vitamins – boost your health while in Lisbon
There are several such informal restaurants in Lisbon. On the third night of our trip, we ate at the Chiado branch. We can choose salads from an appetizing range of fresh vegetables.
The restaurant promotes a healthy lifestyle and its mission is to increase vitamin levels while lowering cholesterol levels. We ordered at the counter from the helpful staff. The price is very reasonable.
Brasilela Coffee Shop – Classic
Located in the Chiado neighborhood, this is one of the oldest and most famous cafes in Lisbon. This historic café was a meeting place for the intellectuals of yesteryear. On the last day of the trip we sat outside and enjoyed coffee and tea. A Brasileira was founded in 1905 by Adiano Telles, who came to Portugal from Brazil. He was the first person to sell coffee in Portugal. We are told that he initially offered free coffee for a few months to get Lisbon residents hooked on coffee!
The richly decorated Parisian-style interior attracted lawyers, doctors, teachers, writers and artists. The popular café became a meeting place for art and literature. We took turns sitting in front of the statue of the writer Fernando Pessoa outside the café, who had been a regular customer.
Markets – shop like a local
There are markets throughout Lisbon mainly for residents to buy food. The Mercardo 31 de Janeiro market near our hotel is well worth a visit. There are many fish and seafood stalls at the market, including the popular dried cod. Other stalls are filled with colorful vegetables produced locally. It’s fun to get briefly lost in the vibrant colors and scents. This is the main market of the community of Saldanha.
Starbucks
The chain has branches in Lisbon, including at the airport. The menu is slightly different from the American menu. The venti iced tea (largest size) is much smaller than the American venti and costs 4.65 euros.
Mini market – selling snacks during the day
We went to a few small supermarkets to buy food to take with us for a few days. Prices are reasonable but stock is limited.
If you’d like to further follow in Saul’s footsteps in and around Lisbon, check out What to see in Lisbon and Belém in this articleand Tips for visiting Sintra in this article. To discover more exciting places near Lisbon, visit A real Jurassic Park in central Portugal – Just one hour’s drive from Lisbon.
Saul lives in Alexandria, Virginia, and has lived in Washington, DC since 1984. He enjoys traveling around Europe with his wife and family, and particularly enjoys interacting with local residents and learning about life in their cities and countries.
Saul has previously shared his travel insights with us. read his story Visit South West Ireland – Limerick, Clare and Galway Or check out his travels Modern Athens – beyond the Acropolis or his obsession Vatican: The Pope’s Rome.
