They say this is one of the four corners of the world. Standing on the edge of Newfoundland in eastern Canada, overlooking the endless Atlantic Ocean, I understand why. The land is pristine, wind-blowing, carved by hundreds of years of weather and ocean. However, despite its out of reach, the quiet warmth lingers here. Most of them came from a place that took my husband Niall and me to this far-off shore: Fogo Island Inn.
The road to Forgo Island
Arriving at Fogo Island is not easy, but it is part of its magic. After landing at St. John’s, we set off on the road and drove to the farewell port, which is the starting point for the 50-minute ferry to Fogo. It was during that crossover that the wind first made itself know. Despite the calendar saying spring, the snow spots still cling to the ground, and a meditative beauty wanders in the air, a quiet reminder that nature sets the pace here. When the hotel finally appeared – angles and elevations, as if rising from the rock itself – I felt like I had reached the edge of the world.
Anchoring the nature design
Fogo Island Inn is brought to life by Newfoundland Indigenous architect Todd Saunders, an architectural miracle that instantly places you in your surroundings. When I walked into the room, everything became soft. The wind became quiet, the cold retreated, replaced by a welcoming feeling, so sincere that it almost felt the family. The interior of the hotel is a thoughtful and comparative study: sophisticated and rustic, spare and affectionate. Restored woods, hand-woven textiles and nods to nautical life (such as coiled fishing ropes and painted furniture), tell a story of a location, craft and care. Yes, yes, but completely entrenched, honest, humble and totally charming.
Wild windows
Just on the prompt, the cloud part. As I headed to my room, the light overflowed into the long corridor, gathering gently – only 29, each very unique. Floor-to-ceiling windows make the Atlantic Ocean aside, attracting it to every corner. In each room, an open window invites the steady buzz of purple air and wind and waves. Thanks to a comfortable wood burning stove and hand-sewn quilts (each with the name of the local manufacturer) draped over the bed, I opened the windows and breathed.
The smell of Labrador electric current
Speaking of food, each dish here tells the story of fishermen, hunters and foragers who share the island’s bounty. We settled in the dining room where the ceiling and huge windows offer views of the land and the ocean, which is where each ingredient comes from. The hotel is located on the path of the Labrador River, commonly known as the lungs of the earth – life is shaped by the rhythm of nature, while food follows. That night, the scallops we tasted pulled straight out of the nearby decorative water and their sweet talked about the place. As the sky began to blush with the sunset, we drifted to the lounge for a cocktail of fire, and the binoculars were ready to grab every light dance on the open water.
If the sound of awakening the waves isn’t enough to attract us, then every morning a bunch of warm, freshly roasted food and hot coffee can be delivered to the door. Starting the day under the lid, holding coffee in your hand, watching the Atlantic Ocean stirring quietly a little magical.
A journey through Fogo’s creativity
We spent a morning, absorbed the rest, and then took a tour of the island with our warm and knowledgeable community host Rosemarie Burke. As we travel through Fogo’s 12 unique communities, she brings the island to life with a long history and deep-rooted traditions. Along the way, we visited long-term studios, Squish Studio and several local artist spaces, each with a stunning blend of original natural beauty and bold modern design. Fogo has become a safe haven for artists from around the world, attracted by the loneliness and inspiration provided by these studios. As an artist myself, I can’t help but imagine how it might feel in one of the creations. Once, I caught a glimpse of the hotel from a distance, its stilts fixed on the granite hillside. At that moment, it feels as if we are stepping straight into the island’s creative soul.
Later that day, I had the opportunity to guide my creativity as we captured one of the most epic sunsets we’ve ever seen. With the camera in our hands, we taste the colorful sky every moment. Afterwards, we headed to the rooftop of the hotel, where we waited for a wood-burning sauna and open-air hot tub. We soaked and admired the scenery, allowing the warmth to melt the traces of the cold of the day.
The next day we entered my favorite place at the hotel: the tea room. There is always a warm drink waiting here while comforting. Next to the cozy space is the bench, home to the guest experience team, home to these people, thoughtful people who are ready to help you plan your time on Fogo Island, from daily tours to local experiences. What makes it even more special is knowing that Fogo Island Inn is more than just a hotel. This is a community-centric social business built on regeneration practices that help support the future of the people, nature and culture of the island. This care shows – in every conversation, every smile, every thoughtful detail.
Leave the promise to return
When we left, the team gave us our fresh sandwich lunch – a thoughtful, unexpected gesture that made saying goodbye as meaningful as our arrival. This is the kind of place you have been with you for a long time since you left, and as we look back on our journeys on the mainland, we are already planning the rewards. No wonder Fogo Island Inn has its original beauty, quiet luxury and promise to preserve the soul of the island, which can attract you time and time again.
