Denali rose more than 18,000 feet near Tundra nearby, because of its challenging weather. Denali is 20,310 feet tall and sitting at 63 degrees north latitude, which is the highest peak of the Arctic. “Great people” may cause the magnets of the storm from the Gulf of Alaska or the entire Bai Linghai, and sometimes it seems to appear the top of the mountain in the raised cloud layer, which seems to produce its own weather mountain.
The bad weather is here, the sun is full, and the peaceful days are usually mixed with the days of strong wind and snow wind. In a 22 -day adventure, most of the typical season climbing teams will find the weather window of three to four days, which is enough to make good cracks on the top of the mountain. But this year is not …
The experienced Denali and Alaska Range guidelines described him on the mountain in May 2023 as “in the revelation of wind and snow, for a few days, the good weather window is less than 24 hours, and it is almost open to allow us to move. “” “
This season, several teams found ourselves waiting for the 14,000 -foot camp to adapt, adapt to, adapt and prepare to go to high camps, but their rest time in the weather will never go up the mountain for 12 to 24 hours, let alone Said to have a chance to try the top of the mountain. Generally, the team left the mountain after sitting for a week or longer, and after seven to ten days, the next predictive weather window was performed.
One of our most experienced Denali guidelines, lead him 26th Soloch, backward from 11,000 feet! Due to the weather, they lost a few days and waited to fly to the base camp. They lost more days. Under difficulties, Kazyltner’s glacier rose, and then lost another week of weather, at 11,000 feet. In the end, their time was exhausted, and their sights did not change, so they made a difficult decision and decided to try again in another season. Crazy!
The challenges of wind and snow are even more complicated, and it is the danger of related avalanches. Deep snow and wind tilt need time to settle. The severe cold of this climbing season has intensified this process. The terrain above Genet Basin usually takes at least a few days on 14,200 feet before it takes a few days to trigger the possibility of avalanche and become reasonable, enough to make the team crawl through it.
The last team of this season in early July was waiting in a cold storm at 14,200 feet, and the snow -driven snow was full of storm boards and deep shields above the camp. Because the weather did not have a clear rest and could not relieve the avalanche danger, they finally turned around and returned to the building at hiking. As of mid -July, Xue still did not relax.
When some areas of the country are baking in extreme heat and drought, the Alaska Mountains see a series of low -voltage systems transferred from the Gulf of Alaska, and only the short -pressure spine is passing between large low -pressure systems. This is the most consistent moisture and low -pressure system we have ever seen. By early July, as we ended in the end of our season, we were setting a record in 1963 for the accumulation of precipitation in southwestern Alaska. There is no unprecedented weather. Throughout the climbing season, this is just ruthless. Ironically, most of the time this season, the 2022 season is completely opposite to a series of high -voltage systems, and the success rate of Denali Summits is more than 70 %.
In the past ten years, the weather forecast has improved. In the past few years, we have hired professional mountain weather forecasters to help us, which has made our Alaska forecast better than ever. Our predictions do help us choose the top windows, but maybe more importantly, this year, it helps us get rid of our team, because the short -lived good weather becomes a strong wind and snow.
Mountain Guides has a responsibility to make a decision that meets the greatest interests of our climbers. The well -being of our guests and guidelines is our primary task. They said that each accident can be prevented. Although this may be true, the problem is that we cannot predict every accident. However, we do know that the conditions for entering risk control may even make our system management fragile and increase the possibility of unacceptable results.
This season, we saw several other teams on Denali, because they were trapped in bad weather in bad weather or a few weeks, and then suffered a lot of cold damage. Frozen fingers, toes, ears, or noses are not worthy of the top of the mountain.
Here, as we show websiteTo sum up our method of climbing Dafeng.
We guide the concept of Denali climbing to summarize with three goals:
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- Everyone is healthy.
- Everyone has great experience.
- Everyone stands on the top of the mountain.
We will never sacrifice our first two goals for the third goal.
2023 is a very difficult season. Congratulations to several teams at the summit; however, most of our climbers have not, which is very disappointing to each climber, guide and the entire company. In the end, we are proud of how our climbers and guidance cope with challenges. Part of the climbing in the Alaska Mountains is an unknown result brought by trying to do hard things. Seeing the team together, working hard under the conditions of hard work, and still have great experience with new friends, this is really amazing-even if they cannot become a lead.
